Ask about your rabbit.

Are muesli-style rabbit mixes bad for rabbits?

Yes. Muesli-style mixes let a rabbit pick out the colorful, sugary bits and leave the rest, a pattern called selective feeding. Even a nutritionally complete-looking bag stops being balanced once a rabbit eats around it, and rabbit welfare and veterinary organizations link that pattern to dental disease, obesity, and digestive problems. Base the diet on appropriate hay and use plain, uniform pellets or nuggets instead of muesli, so the rabbit cannot selectively feed, and if your rabbit is already on a mix, switch gradually rather than overnight.

Can my rabbit eat strawberries?

Yes — as an occasional small treat. Fruit is sugar-dense, treat-tier food for a rabbit, never a staple. Current House Rabbit Society guidance: about one teaspoon of fresh fruit per 2 pounds of body weight, with fruit kept under 5% of the daily diet.

How do I bunny-proof my home?

Start with electrical cords—chewing a live cord can be fatal. Cover every cord with hard plastic protectors or lift it completely out of reach before giving your rabbit floor time. Remove or raise houseplants and treat every one as off-limits; block access to baseboards, stairs, and gaps behind appliances; and provide safe chewing alternatives. Use a spacious bunny-proofed room or exercise pen with solid flooring and enough room for normal movement.

Is my rabbit overweight, and how do I prevent it?

Yes, pet rabbits can become overweight, and rabbit welfare organizations describe it as a common problem. The usual causes are too little exercise and too much rich food — commercial food, treats, and alfalfa — in place of unlimited grass hay. It matters beyond looks: an overweight rabbit may be unable to groom itself or reach its bottom to eat its caecotrophs, which raises the risk of skin infection and flystrike, and the extra weight strains the heart, liver, and joints. If you think your rabbit may be overweight, ask a rabbit-savvy veterinarian to check rather than changing the diet on your own.

Should I spay or neuter my rabbit?

Generally, yes — for both sexes, unless a rabbit-experienced veterinarian recommends otherwise for that individual rabbit. Spaying all but eliminates a very high lifetime risk of uterine cancer and infection in females; neutering usually greatly reduces spraying and hormone-driven aggression in males and removes their smaller reproductive-cancer risk. Altered rabbits are often calmer, litter-train far more reliably, and are better prepared for safe bonding with another altered rabbit. It is a commonly performed procedure for a rabbit-experienced veterinarian, but it still requires individualized surgical and anesthesia assessment — and that veterinarian will also decide the right timing for your rabbit.

Should I ever bathe my rabbit?

Do not give a rabbit a routine full bath. Rabbits normally groom themselves, and a wet bath can cause panic and injury while leaving dense fur difficult to dry. For an ordinary dirty patch, clean only that area and keep the rabbit dry. If your rabbit repeatedly cannot stay clean, contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian; a wet bath belongs only in the uncommon situation where that veterinarian specifically directs it.

How do I litter train my rabbit?

Yes — most rabbits can be litter trained, because they instinctively pick specific spots (usually a corner) to go. The single biggest factor is spaying or neutering: intact rabbits mark territory and are much harder to train. Put a roomy, low-sided box where your rabbit already tends to go, add hay at one end, and clean it daily. Even a well-trained rabbit is never flawlessly perfect — a stray dropping here and there is normal marking, not failure.

How much space and enrichment does my rabbit need indoors?

A cage is a bedroom, not a home — pair it with a large pen or a bunny-proofed room with no wire flooring, room to fully stretch out and stand tall on hind legs, and daily time out to explore. Furnish it with a two-opening hideaway, a litter box, always-available hay, and rotating toys for chewing, digging, and foraging. A rabbit that goes without any of this can become bored or even depressed.

Do rabbits need a special vet?

Yes. Rabbits are treated as exotic pets, and their care — from dental problems to safe anesthesia — needs a veterinarian with specific rabbit training and experience, not just any practice. Find one before you need one: rabbits are prey animals that hide illness until it is serious, so choosing a rabbit-savvy vet and a nearby emergency option ahead of time is part of basic care.

I found a baby wild rabbit — what do I do?

Almost always: leave the nest alone. A mother rabbit visits only briefly, usually around dawn and dusk, so babies found alone are usually not orphaned. Contact a licensed wildlife rehabilitator promptly if the baby is injured, was caught by a cat or dog, has fly eggs, or is cold, wet, or crying nonstop. Do not feed it or try to raise it yourself.